Many of today's over-the-counter (OTC) skin creams and lotions promise to do further than moisturize the skin. They state to reduce wrinkles and prevent or reverse damage caused by aging and sun exposure.

The message: A new generation of topical cosmetic creams promises the same wrinkle-relaxing, age-defying results as some pricey and maybe even some potentially dangerous medical procedures, including Botox and collagen injections. Some research suggests that wrinkle creams contain elements that may improve wrinkles. But many of these ingredients haven't been subjected to thorough research that establishes this benefit.

Do they work?

Retinol used in OTC wrinkle creams is antioxidants. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals and break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Retinol is less effective than tretinoin, which is approved for treating wrinkles. Both causes redness and irritation. It smoothens wrinkle. Avoid if you're pregnant. Hydroxy acids are synthetic versions of acids derived from sugar-containing fruits. These are substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin. Hydroxy acids produce collagen, a protein that thickens skin and prevents water loss. Use of these acids help to improve in fine lines and wrinkles. Side effects include burning, itching, pain and possible scarring. Alpha-lipoic acid is antioxidant that penetrates skin cell membranes, where it neutralizes free radicals and increases the efficiency of other antioxidants. It works as a superficial chemical peel to exfoliate dead skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and brown spots. Side effects include inflammation. Coenzyme Q-10 is a nutrient that helps regulate energy in cells. It helps to reduce wrinkles around the eyes with no side effects. Copper peptides improve wound healing. They also stimulate production of collagen and enhance action of antioxidants. Copper peptides improve fine wrinkling, age spots and sun damage with no side effects. Growth factors are hormones that improve wrinkles and uneven pigmentation with minimal irritation. Soy isoflavones may produce wrinkle-reducing effects on skin, similar to hormone therapy. It lightens age spots. Vitamin C is antioxidant nutrient that helps recycle vitamin E. It promotes collagen formation.  They may reduce wrinkles and side effects include stinging and irritation. Vitamin E reduces wrinkles, skin roughness, and wrinkle depth. Side effects include swollen, reddened and itchy skin. Collagen is fibrous protein that keeps skin supple and elastic. Collagen reduces with age, contributing to wrinkling and sagging. Many skin creams contain collagen, which nourishes the skin and control aging.

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Pentapeptides and Anti-Wrinkle Technology

Much of the new anti-aging treatment technology focuses on compounds called pentapeptides -- small groups of long chain amino acids that function as chemical messengers throughout the body. Many medical experts involved in product testing say there is ample science behind the pentapeptide anti-wrinkle technology. Initially, the research on pentapeptides was done in relation to wound healing. As part of the body's natural response to help skin heal, published studies showed peptides are instrumental in increasing cells in the skin to produce more collagen. But collagen isn't just for healing cuts and scrapes. It also plays an important role in how skin ages. Collagen supports the structure that gives our skin a firm, young appearance. When levels remain plentiful our skin looks young and fresh. When levels decline, we lose that support and wrinkles begin to form. While collagen injections can temporarily put back some of what we lose, some researchers believe that topically applying the peptides might have a similar effect -- without the needle.

Argireline: Better Than Botox

Even more interesting is the level of attention that has been recently focused the combination of two types of pentapeptide technology, palmitoyl pentapeptide and acetyl hexapeptide, also known as Argireline -- for a compound that may mimic both a collagen shot and a Botox injection simultaneously. Botox works by destroying a protein involved in the release of a neurotransmitter that would otherwise keep a muscle tense, allowing a wrinkle to form. By stopping the tensing motion and relaxing the muscle, the wrinkle seems to disappear. The Argireline complex attempts to mimic that same Botox action by blocking the action of the protein. It doesn't destroy the protein; like Botox does instead it simply keeps it from connecting to the cell and turning on the muscle contraction. The palmitoyl peptide, meanwhile, works on producing more collagen. The end result may be similar to that of a medical procedure, just not much less dramatic.

What Wrinkle Creams Are Truly Effective

If you shop for such products in a department store or pharmacy or on the Internet, you'll find hundreds of different brands containing a confusing array of ingredients. You may be tempted to experiment with different brands until you find one that works. But this approach may be expensive. It also may cause skin irritation and deprive you of the benefits of an effective skin-care regimen. The health magazine Consumer Health Digest.com had a great review on wrinkle creams and their actual effectiveness in a recent skin care feature, the results are quite surprising.

Conclusion:

FDA believes it to be cosmetics, which have no medical value. So they regulate them lightly than drugs. FDA doesn't regulate cosmetic products for effectiveness. Different skin creams and lotions may be more efficient on different skins. A dermatologist can help in selecting a wrinkle cream or lotion Right product with a proven medical or surgical treatment for wrinkles may be effective way of achieving a younger-looking face.